the bleak British winter fast approaching the MadPage had an
overwhelming desire to return to the island republic that we love. A
beautiful island if ever there was one. Blue skies, ditto sea, green
central mountains reaching up to 7000ft..Ahhh!. The only
problem as everyone knows is the tragic and traumatic division of
the country. The Northern part of the island is a no-go area. There
is very little love lost between the two communities. Years of
communal riots since independence from the Brits, followed by a
disastrous civil war, had seen to that.
A disastrous attack on the
country's only airport soon followed by an invasion of a strategic
natural harbour in the eastern part heralded the final dramatic
division of the country. The United Nations was called in and to cut
a long story short the country was divided up on a North-South
Just as the minority had wanted!
This of course meant that the
minority community numbering 18% of the population inherited 33% of
the land. The UN maintained the border (or rather the buffer zone)
mostly for the exchange of refugees...and to prevent the diehards
from either side starting another war.
The Madpage wanted to visit the
north. As a token gesture. To remember the glorious past. A small
island like that cannot be divided we said.
Well meaning friends and associates tried to warn us that it was
not easy to visit the north. There is no public transport across the
border. No cars allowed across the border. We can walk we said. You
need special clearance they said. We are special we said. There is a
risk they said. We are used to risks we said. You are mad they said.
That's true we said.
Such minor problems never stopped the
MadPage in taking part in dangerous expeditions especially where
officialdom was involved. Why do we need passports. Surely the
Portuguese, the Dutch and the Brits didn't carry passports when they
visited other people's countries to set up trading posts and
missions and invade!......
The day was a bright sunny day as almost all days are like in this
paradise. By mid day the temp would be nudging 34 degs Celsius. We
started early in the morning having first spied out the land on the
previous day. It's a good practice to spy out the land first.
There was only one border crossing point along the whole 500 km of
border. Easy to control a border that way.
At a very early stage Mrs Madpage had
indicated that however
much she loved the country etc that there was no way she was going
to the north. It was dangerous she said. So is crossing the road we
countered. We had been through this sort of argument before.......
Our research had indicated that as
long as one held a foreign passport and especially if it was a
British passport the crossing was not too difficult.
We parked the car as soon as we saw the blue UN warning signs and
walked the half a mile or so to the barb-wired border post. No need
to get shot by trigger-happy border guards. Mrs. MadPage decided to
sit safely in The South under a tree near a "Petti Kade"
(shack) and have a Coke. Petti Kades with Coca Cola signs grow
Trilingual and Triplicate
It was clear that the border guards didn't want anybody to visit
These were the usual
officious-looking non-smiling lot typically seen at airport
immigration desks and tax offices. "Why do you want to...Have
you got friends or relatives...Where were you
born.....Passport!....No photos, no camera!.....Fill this form.."
The standard trilingual forms were
Officialdom has always irritated the MadPage but we can be a
diplomatic arsehole when we want to be. We smiled broadly. Turned to
the only female border guard, turned on the charm (or what was left
of it after 52 years) and asked for a pen!
Having found no fault with our
passport and paperwork we were grudgingly allowed across into the
It was a rather lonely crossing.
Rusty barbed wire. Former houses now derelict buildings pockmarked
with bullet holes. Minie-Mal (Vinca rosea) and Gandapana
flowers flourished. Smell of blocked drains. A few flies.
We were now in the UN buffer zone
designed to keep a healthy distance between the two factions. The UN
had commandeered a tourist hotel and was using it as their base.
Laundry was hanging out of windows. A few soldiers lounged
around..We are only here for the beer.....The natives can kill each
other if they want to....they seemed to say. They took no notice of
the middle-aged beer bellied and balding MadPage, dressed in shorts
and in trainers!..
We walked the lonely quarter mile and
arrived at the "other" border post and the other border
guards. Slightly friendlier lot. Not many cross the border. We are
Signs clearly indicated that we were
now about to enter a new country. A new flag. More form filling and
then we actually stepped into the North! We were in the newly
Yes! We had crossed the line!
Another short walk in the hot sun along a dusty road. We were now
in the north but it was not much different. A few derelict
cadjan/corrugated iron (Takaran) huts with no signs of life. Battle
scars. Dust everywhere. Beginning to regret having worn tight
Y-fronts instead of boxer shorts. Sweat and dust and walking have an
abrasive effect on the nether regions. Salty sweat poured down the
And then a red flash amongst the trees and YES! It is not a mirage!
"Enjoy Coca Cola"
the sign exhorts. The unmistakable, universal and internationally
recognisable logo. Almost like the Red Cross. Probably more
recognisable than the Red Cross. A welcoming sign!!
sat down on a plastic chair in the shack (Petti Kade) Or rather
outside and in the shade. Limited choice we thought. Probably
lukewarm Coke or warm Coke we thought. Or no Coke!
Pleasantly surprised to find chilled
local beer and a clean glass.
"Any currency welcome, Sir!"
said the dark swarthy moustachioed bare bodied man who was obviously
the owner of the shack and who was rather reluctantly taking time
off from the card game he was playing with his cronies to serve the
MadPage. We probably paid over the odds for the beer but who cares.
A clean ashtray appeared.
The beer tasted great! We had crossed the line! Mrs MadPage was
probably only half a mile away from where we sat but was in a
different country. We were in the newly created Separate State with
its own economy, own currency, car number plates and even their own
beer!. What a world!
What a tragic world! Only the beer is real...we thought.
A lean, sleek, non-potbellied stray
cat scratched its right ear vigourously with its right hind paw,
looked at the MadPage curiously but briefly, sniffed the air in the
immediate vicinity of the MadPage, found the bouquet uninteresting
and then got to work on the left ear. With the left hind paw.
The cat could cross the border if it
wanted to we thought...without paperwork...cats can't write and
therefore can't fill forms....its only the humans who have
A mistake to get down from the trees..but then if we had stayed up
on the trees we could have fallen out of them.....on the other hand
if we had asked the Americans........Perish the thought!.
Only the beer was real!
The crossing back was uneventful and
boring. Mrs MadP was still sitting under the tree. The guards
completed their paperwork. One MadPage in one MadPage out.
note: On the 20th of September 2001, the MadPage crossed the
so-called "Green Line" which divides Cyprus. The northern
half is Turkish Cypriot and the south Greek Cypriot. The only
crossing point is in Nicosia at the Ledra Palace Hotel crossing. The
Ledra Palace Hotel is occupied by UN soldiers. The crossing is not
sign-posted, not easy to find and for all intents and purposes does
not exist! The officialdom in the south was rather formidable. The
crossing is dusty and the derelict buildings show battle scars. Wild
flowers of the types seen in Srilanka and as described above, cover
most of the scars. The above is a fairly accurate account with very
little poetic license...
Cyprus was "sold" to the
British in 1925 and was later bought back in the form of "Independence".
Communal problems started off as soon as the Brits said Bye! Bye!
Turkey invaded the north on the 20th of July 1974. Within days the
country was partitioned off. UN soldiers were inserted between the
battle lines. In 1983 the Turkish North declared itself the TURKISH
REPUBLIC OF NORTH CYPRUS. Familiar story!....A lesson too late for
©Copyright Gyan Fernando 2001
First written on the 23rd of September 2001